Inside the Winery
HEAD WINEMAKER, SAM BERKETA
Welcome to our winery, where the real magic happens. All of our batches that come into the winery are treated separately to keep what makes them uniqueโฆ ahh, unique! Although the season starts in the vineyard, the winery is the easiest place to ruin a whole year's worth of hard work in a short time, so itโs important that quality is always the reason for everything we do in the cellar.
8:00 AM - Early Morning Fruit Delivery
โGrapes come on trucks.โ Thatโs an old idiom in the wine industry, implying that winemakers only meet the fruit when it lands at the winery. But for us thatโs not the case, as Iโve spent the better part of the last 6 months driving in circles, checking on our various vineyards.
This morning, alongside some others, itโs a truckload of pristine hand picked Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills, destined for our Corrugated Castle. Tomโs on the forklift to unload the delivery while the rest of us get everything ready.
Then itโs weighed on the big scales before going straight into the press.
Corrugated Castle Chardonnay 2024
9:00 AM - PRESSING
Chardonnay gets pressed pretty much straight awayโwe want to keep it fresh and avoid the bitter phenolic compounds that come from time on skins. While the press is being filled, Nickโs washing barrels and getting them ready. As itโs beautiful and pristine handpicked fruit, we direct press this Chardonnay straight into barrel, gaining complexity throughout the press cycle.
We keep our presses pretty gentleโwe get less yield, but the quality is much better. It takes about four hours, which sounds like plenty of time, but thereโs always something else that needs doing during that timeโthereโs no standing around!
8:30 AM - FERMENT ROUNDS
While this is all going on, Iโm usually bouncing between tanks, or climbing barrels with a wine thief in hand, tasting ferments.
Iโll taste, check where things are at, take a sample and move onto the next tank. And then do it all again later. Usually twice a day for every ferment.
At this stage, Iโm not really looking for flavour; Iโm checking for signs that somethingโs offโfaults, reduction from nutrient deficiencies, tannin balance, acidity, general weird aromas etc, etc.
Fermentation is when all of the flavour compounds get releasedโwhich is why wine ends up far more aromatic than grape juice ever was.ย
The simplified science: Yeast eat sugar and crap out good or bad flavours depending on whether or not theyโre happy.
There are a lot of things that can influence whether a ferment is happy or goes completely sideways: temperature, nutrition, oxygen, yeast strains, to name a few.
So itโs our job to keep the yeast happy and things moving in the right direction.
9:00 AM - Fermentation Management
Vintage is in full swing, and this job can take hoursโweโve got tanks everywhere and everything needs constant attention. Gabbyโs on pump-overs this morning, while Nickโs plunging the pots. We use either pump-overs or plungers to mix the ferments on skins. We do this to even out temperatures and to extract colour, flavour and tannin from the skins.ย
Did you know that nearly all grapes have white juice? The colour for the red wines is all locked up in the skins, and itโs this process that leeches the colour into the wine. You should see the colour of this McLaren Vale Shirazโsuch a deep purple itโs almost black, it stains everything it touches, including my hands.
Weโre super gentle with our fermentation management, keeping things cool and calm, and aiming to extract tannins through extended maceration rather than beating the wines too aggressively.
Hercules Shiraz 2023
1PM - TEAM LUNCH
We work long, hard days, so itโs important to stop and gather the gang together for lunch, open a bottle or two, to taste and remind ourselves why we love this work. Itโs good to have a reminder when youโve got wet feet in wet boots from washing down a press, or youโre elbows deep in muck from a blocked drain.
Weโre lucky that my mum, Lindy, comes and cooks us lunch on Fridays. Sheโs a trained chef, so you know Iโm not just biased when I say she cooks the most delicious meals, sometimes with a little help from my dad too. Weโll throw in some nice wines too to set the mood, making it a great way to book-end a busy week.
CLEAN UP
And then thereโs the least glamorous part of the jobโcleaning. Tanks, hoses, presses, floors, bucketsโpretty much anything that touched fruit or juice today needs to be cleaned before we do it all again tomorrow.
Winemaking is romantic for about five minutes until youโre hosing grape skins off the floor at 7pm.
A lot of vintage is cleaning up after the last job so youโre ready for the next one. Then everyone heads home, gets some sleep, and comes back to do it all again the next morning.