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HEAD WINEMAKER, SAM BERKETA

Welcome to our winery, where the real magic happens. All of our batches that come into the winery are treated separately to keep what makes them uniqueโ€ฆ ahh, unique! Although the season starts in the vineyard, the winery is the easiest place to ruin a whole year's worth of hard work in a short time, so itโ€™s important that quality is always the reason for everything we do in the cellar.

8:00 AM - Early Morning Fruit Delivery

โ€œGrapes come on trucks.โ€ Thatโ€™s an old idiom in the wine industry, implying that winemakers only meet the fruit when it lands at the winery. But for us thatโ€™s not the case, as Iโ€™ve spent the better part of the last 6 months driving in circles, checking on our various vineyards.

This morning, alongside some others, itโ€™s a truckload of pristine hand picked Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills, destined for our Corrugated Castle. Tomโ€™s on the forklift to unload the delivery while the rest of us get everything ready.

Then itโ€™s weighed on the big scales before going straight into the press.

9:00 AM - PRESSING

Chardonnay gets pressed pretty much straight awayโ€”we want to keep it fresh and avoid the bitter phenolic compounds that come from time on skins. While the press is being filled, Nickโ€™s washing barrels and getting them ready. As itโ€™s beautiful and pristine handpicked fruit, we direct press this Chardonnay straight into barrel, gaining complexity throughout the press cycle.

We keep our presses pretty gentleโ€”we get less yield, but the quality is much better. It takes about four hours, which sounds like plenty of time, but thereโ€™s always something else that needs doing during that timeโ€”thereโ€™s no standing around!

8:30 AM - FERMENT ROUNDS

While this is all going on, Iโ€™m usually bouncing between tanks, or climbing barrels with a wine thief in hand, tasting ferments.

Iโ€™ll taste, check where things are at, take a sample and move onto the next tank. And then do it all again later. Usually twice a day for every ferment.

At this stage, Iโ€™m not really looking for flavour; Iโ€™m checking for signs that somethingโ€™s offโ€”faults, reduction from nutrient deficiencies, tannin balance, acidity, general weird aromas etc, etc.

Fermentation is when all of the flavour compounds get releasedโ€”which is why wine ends up far more aromatic than grape juice ever was.ย 

The simplified science: Yeast eat sugar and crap out good or bad flavours depending on whether or not theyโ€™re happy.

There are a lot of things that can influence whether a ferment is happy or goes completely sideways: temperature, nutrition, oxygen, yeast strains, to name a few.

So itโ€™s our job to keep the yeast happy and things moving in the right direction.

9:00 AM - Fermentation Management

Vintage is in full swing, and this job can take hoursโ€”weโ€™ve got tanks everywhere and everything needs constant attention. Gabbyโ€™s on pump-overs this morning, while Nickโ€™s plunging the pots. We use either pump-overs or plungers to mix the ferments on skins. We do this to even out temperatures and to extract colour, flavour and tannin from the skins.ย 

Did you know that nearly all grapes have white juice? The colour for the red wines is all locked up in the skins, and itโ€™s this process that leeches the colour into the wine. You should see the colour of this McLaren Vale Shirazโ€”such a deep purple itโ€™s almost black, it stains everything it touches, including my hands.

Weโ€™re super gentle with our fermentation management, keeping things cool and calm, and aiming to extract tannins through extended maceration rather than beating the wines too aggressively.

1PM - TEAM LUNCH

We work long, hard days, so itโ€™s important to stop and gather the gang together for lunch, open a bottle or two, to taste and remind ourselves why we love this work. Itโ€™s good to have a reminder when youโ€™ve got wet feet in wet boots from washing down a press, or youโ€™re elbows deep in muck from a blocked drain.
Weโ€™re lucky that my mum, Lindy, comes and cooks us lunch on Fridays. Sheโ€™s a trained chef, so you know Iโ€™m not just biased when I say she cooks the most delicious meals, sometimes with a little help from my dad too. Weโ€™ll throw in some nice wines too to set the mood, making it a great way to book-end a busy week.

CLEAN UP

And then thereโ€™s the least glamorous part of the jobโ€”cleaning. Tanks, hoses, presses, floors, bucketsโ€”pretty much anything that touched fruit or juice today needs to be cleaned before we do it all again tomorrow.

Winemaking is romantic for about five minutes until youโ€™re hosing grape skins off the floor at 7pm.

A lot of vintage is cleaning up after the last job so youโ€™re ready for the next one. Then everyone heads home, gets some sleep, and comes back to do it all again the next morning.